Albuquerque: Red, Green, or Christmas?

On my way from Scottsdale to Albuquerque I drove through Gallup, NM which was extra special because it was one of my sisters first travel nursing assignments and it is where she fell in love with the southwest.

I got off at the Gallup exit and drove by the small hospital where she saved lives in the emergency room. It was really meaningful to see the place she’s talked about so many times.

I also got to see literal tumbleweed rolling by as I drove through the desert.

Albuquerque may be my least favorite stop on my trip. My mom warned me as we caught up on my drive that she read about the high crime rate in the city. Apparently Albuquerque has an exorbitant violent crime rate; approximately 300 times higher than most of the country. Throughout my time there I heard over and over from locals about the crime and about being careful in my neighborhood, not running in certain places, and not walking around at night.

For a bit of comparison, Boston has twice as many people as Albuquerque in a much smaller space and in the 3 weeks I was in Abq there was one homicide in Boston and there were 11 in Albuquerque in that same time frame.

I spent most of my time in Albuquerque not sleeping well and worried about my safety which is unlike me. I’ve lived in some tough areas in Boston and New York City. I feel comfortable living alone, and feel like I’m a streetwise person but reading about the history of crime, racial inequalities, gang wars, and road rage violence left me feeling uncertain.

I was initially running in Roosevelt Park and then several people told me it was too dangerous. I was told the only safe place to run in my neighborhood was on the University of New Mexico campus but even running there, on one run I saw 3 different blood spots on the sidewalks.

Now for more about my adventures…

New Mexico is known for their hatch chili peppers. At most restaurants they will ask, “Do you want red, green, or Christmas?” They are asking if you want red chili peppers, green chili peppers, or a mix of both. They also make large bunches of red chili peppers that they hang throughout towns and on their homes.

On my first Friday afternoon in town I went to hike/walk the Bosque Loop Trail which runs along the Rio Grande. It was cool to see the river, even if it was more mud than water this time of year. The trail was beautiful with the cottonwood trees changing to a bright orange yellow hue with the Sandia Mountains in the background.

Later that Friday evening I went to Copper Lounge cocktail bar for a cosmo and to write my Arizona blog. It is a speakeasy craft cocktail bar with an attached tequila bar with the best vibes. I ordered some delicious nachos while The Beastie Boys No Sleep Till Brooklyn played over the speakers reminding me of my field hockey days where we would blast Brass Monkey while practicing drills.

On Saturday morning I woke up and headed north to Santa Fe and fell in love. I got a pumpkin spice latte at 35• North Coffee and then sat in the plaza people watching. I also played the song, Santa Fe, from the musical Rent throughout my entire day there.

While I was sitting in the square a wedding party was paraded by led by a mariachi band. There was also a man playing music who played Ring Around the Rosie once several children gathered around to dance.

After enjoying my latte in the plaza I went to the Institute of American Indian Arts to view their Exposure: Native Art and Political Ecology exhibit. The exhibit showcases Native American artists’ “responses to the impacts of nuclear testing, nuclear accidents, and uranium mining on Native peoples and the environment”. It was powerful to witness.

After exploring the museum I walked around and went to the recommended Sante Fe Vintage Outpost until I worked up an appetite and went to the Compound Restaurant for minestrone soup and rosé at their old fashion sunken bar within the historic Adobe structure.

I then went back to the plaza and came across a Native American man selling handmade turquoise rings. He explained that to sell in the plaza artists have to prove they are at least ¼ indigenous and some committee must witness them making their craft from start to finish. While I am so glad I can be certain my money went directly to an indigenous man I also wonder what part white supremacy plays in this process and to whom he has to prove his indigenousness to.

For the afternoon I stopped at Modern General Cafe and then sat outside at Vignette for a glass of rosé and kale caesar salad on their fall vibes patio before going to Canyon Road to explore all the art galleries.

Before leaving town I went to Radish & Rye for an R+R Mule with vodka instead of their recommended bourbon because, well, gluten. It was quite possibly the best mule I’ve ever had.

I also loved sitting at the bar watching the bartender (from LA) make their manhattans on the rocks by smoking the bourbon with vanilla pipe tobacco.

While sitting at the bar I met a wonderful couple from Louisiana and another couple from Albuquerque. The couple from Albuquerque warned me of my unsafe neighborhood and told me their son had been carjacked at gunpoint (read: increased terror).

Sunday morning, back in Abq, I went to find coffee but I didn’t feel safe parking or getting out of my car. I drove around downtown hoping to find better, safer, vibes with no luck.

I went back home to regroup and then went back out to explore Sawmill Market which is an open market with several food places. There wasn’t much in regards to gluten free options except a bunless hot dog and fried potatoes. I also grabbed a Sandia black cherry cider while I ate my lunch on the patio.

My dad has a high school friend who happens to live in Albuquerque. I’d never met her but he connected us and I met up with Marielle and her husband, Gregg, in Old Town then went to dinner at High Noon.

When Gregg ordered his dinner the server asked, “Red, green, or Christmas?” I thought they might be referring to the color of the corn chips but Gregg clarified that they were asking which color chili peppers he wanted (red, green, or both). New Mexico is the chili capital of the world. Gregg let me know that it is actually a trick question because depending on the year red or green could be the hotter chili.

We had so much to talk about as Marielle has been a lifelong traveler, and she and Gregg also travel a lot together including everything from scenic motorcycle rides to explore the US to making a 100+ mile walking pilgrimage to Camino de Santiago in Spain (they’e also done the route through Portugal.)

We talked about how Marielle had studied theology, published books, and also attended psychic school while in graduate school, and their individual journeys with Transcendental Meditation.

They also love visiting haunted hotels, restaurants, and places, and going on ghost tours. Yes, High Noon is known to have some paranormal activity. I think my sister and Marielle would have so much fun if they ever met.

Marielle also told me about why so many of the homes in New Mexico have blue doors and doorways. The indigenous tribes in New Mexico are known as Pueblo People and the Pueblo People believe that blue doors keep evil spirits away.

Marielle checked in with me several times throughout the rest of my time in Abq and offered tons of amazing local recommendations.

The next morning I took the astonishingly beautiful ride to Jemez Springs in search of hot springs. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the hot springs as I hiked into a canyon in the middle of nowhere and I didn’t have any service to try and reevaluate the trail. It was a bummer and made for a much longer drive to my next destination of Santa Fe.

As I drove from Jemez Springs to Santa Fe I had to stop at a checkpoint where they checked my ID and then strictly advised me not to take pictures or right hand turns for the next mile… where the hell was I?

Apparently I was driving through Los Alamos which is the laboratory where the atomic bomb was created.

I revisited Santa Fe to check out Meow Wolf which is “unique, immersive art installations with multimedia elements and a mysterious narrative throughout.” Picture a combination of an art gallery and Escape Room. I would love to go back someday with a group of people to talk through the evidence with.

On a beautiful, sunny afternoon I went to Petroglyph National Monument to hike the The Volcanoes Trail loop. The loop traverses three volcanoes known as “the sisters.” It was remarkable to see the volcanic rock and reminded me that my sister had brought back volcanic rocks from one of her New Mexico hikes.

I had myself a day one Thursday when I wrapped up work early. I hopped around Albuquerque from Bike in Coffee to Bow & Arrow Brewery, which is the first Native American women owned brewery, to Vara Winery and Distillery for delicious dry wine.

I spoke with the couple next to me, Valerie and her husband. Valerie served in the US navy for many years (thank you, Valerie) and she can’t wait to relocate to the east coast.

I love hearing from people all over the country about wanting to be on the east coast or in NYC because growing up there the dream was always to go west to California, to Denver, to Seattle. I’ve also loved the other side of the coin where people ask me, “How do you know which is north/south/east/west without mountains? I couldn’t live there.” I laugh and tell them I don’t know how to tell the direction without the ocean.

The bartender at Vara, Melissa, was amazing and sold me on checking out Still Spirits cocktail bar which had mixed reviews… I wasn’t disappointed.

Still Spirits is all about the drinks, no beer, no wine, no food, no bullshit. The drinks were delicious- I loved the tres flores which is a blend of hibiscus vodka, elderflower, rosé water, lemon, and honey. I also talked to the two young bartenders about my trip and their lives in New Mexico.

After Still Spirits I had to go back to Copper Lounge for cosmos and nachos. I also happened to leave my number for the sexy bald bartender who took care of me both times I was there. Spoiler alert: he never called.

That Saturday afternoon I went to Marble Brewery. I grabbed some delicious vegan french fry/nachos from a food truck (they asked me, “Red, green, or Christmas?” and thanks to Gregg I knew what they were talking about.

There was an amazing Mexican band playing at Marble that I absolutely enjoyed listening to over my food and seltzer while watching couples salsa dance. There were also several groups of people celebrating Dia de los Muertos (the Day of the Dead) which is a Mexican celebration of souls that have passed on.

One of my old roommates lived in El Paso, Texas for an internship and she had told me she used to go to this town full of hot springs in New Mexico with a unique name, Truth or Consequences, and from then on it’s been on my bucket list.

The town was originally called Hot Springs, NM but the people renamed it Truth or Consequences in 1950 after a radio show announced a contest where the winner would be the first town to rename itself after the radio show.

I started my day at Riverbend Hot Springs which has resort style hot spring tubs on the Rio Grande. I reserved a private soaking tub and laid back and relaxed for an hour.

After my soak, I went to The Grapevine Bistro, as recommended by the couple from Radish & Rye, for breakfast. Mario, the owner, greeted me as I came in and then came to the patio to talk to me while he ate an egg sandwich and I ate gluten free pancakes and his special maple chipotle bacon (absolutely amazing combination, trust me). He talked proudly of his children and the colleges they attended and asked about my trip. Mario had switched careers to be a restaurant owner and told me how much he loved it.

Unfortunately, many of the places on my list to see in T or C were permanently closed including Black Cat Books and Coffee, Turtleneck Oasis Natural Market, and Latitude 33.

New Mexico has been under strict lockdown for all of the pandemic, they still have a mask mandate and occupancy limits which has resulted in the closure of many businesses in a state that already has a high poverty rate.

T or C Brewery was also closed, for a staff appreciation event, and Xochi’s Bookstore and Gallery was closed on Sundays.

I did find the adorable Passion Pie Cafe and had a delicious iced pumpkin latte and a gluten free peanut butter cookie. The cafe itself is still not allowing customers inside and is taking orders at the door.

On my way out of town, after taking some fun pictures, I drove by Elephant Butte (pronounced beaut) reservoir where the roads are all dirt and there are more single wides than houses.

I went back to Old Town Abq to see it in the daylight and there was a small car show which my dad would have loved. I also walked by a man playing saxophone with a Patriots hat on who I stopped to speak with and learned that he was originally from Cambridge, MA.

In the plaza I was able to watch a Native American man perform a traditional dance which was beautiful and something my sister spoke of as a wonderful experience she was able to have during her time in New Mexico.

On my last Thursday afternoon I ate lunch at The Grove Cafe and Market which has a line around the block every weekend. I got avocado toast with smoked salmon and a mimosa and sat on the beautiful glass patio area.

After lunch I went to Mama’s Minerals to explore and get a few Christmas gifts. They have a massive selection of minerals, fossils, and rocks.

On my last night I went to LVL 5 rooftop bar for cocktails, dinner, and an epic sunset. The sunset was to the west and the Sandia Mountains to the east. As the sun sets the mountains turn a remarkable color of pink. I knew the mountains were called the Sandias which is the Spanish word for watermelon but I didn’t know why until the woman next to me at LVL 5 told me it was because at sunset the mountains turn pink like the color of watermelon.